Sunday, September 9, 2012

Azilal in the Atlas


Welcome to yet another post about a Moroccan summer camp! I have to admit, leading summer camps wasn’t exactly what I expected to be doing when I departed for my Peace Corps service – nor is it something I plan to do for the majority of my service. But, during the long months of summer, when nearly everything is shut down due to Ramadan and the heat, and all work comes to a near standstill in site, summer camps represent a much-needed break from solitude and idle time. Thus, when I found out that there was an opportunity to work a post-Ramadan camp with two of my closest friends in country – and in a beautiful mountain city famous for its nearby waterfalls to boot – there was no way I could refuse!

Azilal is a gorgeous town nestled in the mountains, right at the point where the Middle Atlas transitions into the High Atlas. From nearly any point in town, one can look out over the rolling hills and mountain peaks that surround it on all sides. The town has a more modern, almost European feel to it (without being European to the point of creepy, liker Ifrane), while still keeping its Moroccan charm. There are cafes, restaurants, and patisseries all over town, and the three of us – Charlotte, Eugene, and I – frequented them as often as possible. There are no restaurants or patisseries in my town, and though there are many cafes, it would be a scandal for me to go to one, being a woman in a very conservative town. The chance to go to one, have a coffee or avocado juice, and sit and talk with friends was glorious – especially with the breathtaking views at the horizon.

Upon arriving to Azilal, we found out that the camp would be geared more toward older youth – roughly 15-20 years old. As none of the three of us are particularly excited about singing songs and playing camp games with kids, we were really happy about the opportunity to work with older youth and do more meaningful activities with them. We decided to plan each day’s camp activities around a particular issue or theme: news/bias, environment, sportsmanship, international, gender and development (GAD), and volunteerism. The English lessons, games, discussions, and activities for each day were based around that day’s theme, giving some coherence to the schedule and allowing the campers to explore each issue in more depth than if we had just done a few isolated issue-based activities. I won’t go into a complete account of all of our activities, but I will share the general idea and main activities we did for each day.

- News / Bias: We really wanted to get the campers thinking about journalism on a theoretical level, with an emphasis on bias and critical thinking. We broke them into small groups and facilitated discussions (all in Arabic) about news in general and about newspaper articles from a recent paper. We also did some activities and games that revolved around critical thinking and spotting bias.


- Sportsmanship: Following English lessons dedicated to the subject of sportsmanship, we taught the campers Ultimate Frisbee, and explained its famous emphasis on fairness and sportsmanship during the game.



- Environment: A local Moroccan who works with an environmental association led us on a nature walk through one of the protected forest areas owned by the Water and Forestry sector of the government. We talked about the environmental history of Azilal and the natural resources found there, and the campers had a good time exploring the forest, collecting pinecones, and the like. Later, we taught various environment based-words in English, and did some activities to reinforce the concepts of conservation and the food chain. We finished the day with a fun activity where a camper was blindfolded, led to a tree, and asked to "get to know their tree" without sight. Afterwards, the blindfold was removed and they had to find that tree again.






- International: We wanted to focus our international day primarily on human rights and conflict resolution. We had he campers read the United Nations Declaration of Human Rights, projected on a huge screen in Arabic. Afterwards, a camper led the group in a discussion of the declaration, including things that might be missing or that they might disagree with. Afterwards, we went to the mural of the world map on the wall, and talked about areas in the world where there are currently conflict situations. Later, we taught the campers an American line dance – the Virginia Reel – and discussed what was going on historically and culturally at the time of the dance’s popularity (the Civil War, immigration, etc.).



- Gender: We spent the bulk of this day doing activities that encouraged the campers to think about gender issues and discuss their opinions with one another. First, we did an activity where various statements about gender and family dynamics were read aloud, and campers had to place themselves in the room on a continuum according to their opinions: one side represented strongly agree, and the other represented strongly disagree. Next, the campers were given cards with various attributes and skills on them (e.g. strong, weak, cooking, working), and asked to place them on a wall, where there were placards hanging entitled “men” and “women.” Afterwards, a camper led the group in a discussion about the cards’ placement and how gender roles function (they came to the conclusion that almost everything could be moved to the middle; that is, that everything is determined by a mix of factors, including society and religion). Later, we had each camper draw a picture of a woman who inspires them, and share who they drew and why.



Intense discussion about gender roles

Before the discussion


After the discussion

- Volunteerism: We had intended for this day to include some sort of volunteerism or service-learning project with a local association, but our search for opportunities of that sort was fruitless; volunteerism is much less common in Morocco, and most associations were still not yet open after the Ramadan holiday. Instead, we led the campers on a short trash pick-up of the forest we had visited on Environment Day, and had them do an egg-drop competition using only things they had found in the forest. There were 4 groups, and each group had a limited amount of time to create a contraption which would protect their egg from breaking when dropped from the 2nd story.

Each group with their egg drop creations:





Overall, the campers were very enthusiastic and engaged with the theme activities, including the more serious, discussion-based ones. There were some who showed a clear interest in one issue or another, and it was awesome to see them have a chance to express themselves and have their voices heard. We made the campers journals for the week, and gave them time to write down new vocabulary and reflect on the things they had learned. The journals weren’t written in as much as we’d hoped, but it was clear in the participation levels and types of discussions that ensued that the campers were interested in the topics all the same. There were also two journalism projects going on throughout the camp: a video and a blog. Neither one came to completion by the end of camp (due to some disorganization and frankly a shortage of time), but the campers seemed to really enjoy the opportunity to play the roles of journalists. The video project made the most progress, and even conducted interviews in a formal style. 



On one of the afternoons, the camp welcomed a panel of four professors / social workers from the court, to talk about the issue of violence against women and children. We were looking forward to the panel, especially because discussions of women’s issues aren’t exactly what I’d call mainstream in most of Morocco. After a long 3 hours, however, we left disappointed. What we thought would be a panel discussion was really a series of games and activities, only half of which somewhat pertained to the issue at hand. The games and activities seemed to me like something you would use during the first session of a college course on human rights, in order to get everyone comfortable with each other and with human rights on a basic, conceptual level. The problem was that the presentation never moved from basic games and worksheets into a real, substantive discussion. What made matters worse was the glaring hypocrisy in the presentation itself: the panel was made up of two men and two women, yet only the men spoke. One man led the bulk of the activities and games, the other talked for some time at the conclusion of the presentation, and the two women merely sat at the grand table, keeping up a façade of egalitarianism that was far from reality. In short, it was a presentation about violence against women and children, during which the actual rights of women and children were hardly mentioned, and the two women present didn’t participate. We were very disappointed, to say the least.

In addition to all of the themed days, one of the days in the middle of the week was dedicated to “relaxation,” and we spent the day going to a real live POOL, followed by watching Wall-E. The three of us swam with the campers – Charlotte and I in long shorts and t-shirts – and had a blast having some real summertime fun. Up until that point, my relationship with the Moroccan summer had been a less-than-positive one: avoiding the oppressive heat, cursing the fact that I have to wear pants and long sleeves in 100+ degree weather, etc. But on this day, at least, we got to do something iconic of the childhood summers that we miss so much: swim in a pool, and actually enjoy the summer sun.

The last day of camp was dedicated to the talent show – and the campers put on some awesome acts! There were rappers, dancers, singers, and more – and Charlotte, Eugene, and I put on a performance of Bohemian Rhapsody that I think it’s safe to say will never be forgotten by anybody present. Eugene wore Charlotte’s shirt, we sang and screeched along to all of the ridiculous (best) parts of the song, danced and bounced dramatically around the stage, and even ended up crawling on the ground at the end. Ted even made a surprise appearance (having come to Azilal to visit and see the waterfalls with us), popping in and out of the stage as the random guitar soloist that nobody had seen before. Yep. It was fantastically obnoxious, ridiculous, and altogether epic – even if the Moroccan kids had no idea what was going on or how to react.

The campers with their certificates on the final day of camp


Of course, a post about my week and a half in Azilal would be incomplete without mention of the earth-shatteringly awesome meals that Charlotte, Eugene, and I made during our time there. We didn’t actually have a lot of free time and so ended up eating a lot of these meals at 1am after hours of cooking, but it was totally worth it. Mexican night, with tortilla chips and salsa made from scratch, Italian night with homemade garlic bread and a cream sauce from scratch, homemade tomato soup and grilled cheese, kung pow chicken and rice…I could go on and on about how well we did for ourselves those nights. Cooking is so much better in the company of friends, and good food is so much more delicious when shared with people close to you.

The day after camp was over, the four of us took a trip out to see the famous Cascades d’Ouzoud, accompanied by Charlotte and Eugene’s awesome LCF from training, who lives in Azilal! The waterfalls were absolutely breathtaking, and we even took a hike down the side of the cliff near the waterfalls, rather than taking the stairs to the other side. I needn’t say more – the pictures speak for themselves.








Since returning from the camp, I’ve been surprised to find that the Dar Chebab and Nedi Neswi are still closed for the summer holiday. I was under the impression that September might bring open doors and some work to be done; unfortunately, that just hasn’t been so. School doesn’t officially start until next week, and the Dar Chebab and Nedi Neswi won’t start fully operating until sometime at the end of September or early October. Thus, I’ve spent the last week or so reading, embarking on cooking adventures, and finishing a craft project. I’ve read 3 books, made chic pea burgers, hummus, homemade pasta sauce, soup, and pancakes, and completed an art project for my wall that I think turned out rather nicely. It’s a line that I try to live by, and will serve as a reminder to keep striving to make each day count throughout my service. I plan to fill the wall surrounding it with pictures of friends, projects, and adventures through Morocco over the course of the next year and a half (because, did I mention, I’m already more than 5 months in – wow, how did that happen?!)



The next few weeks are sure to be jam-packed, full of traveling, and altogether awesome. I leave Wednesday for a short 4-day trip to ROME (!!!), and return to Morocco the night before our IST (In-Service Training) begins on the 17th! What?! More to come on those adventures and more; and until next time,

Hold on to your hats!